AC Repair in Erie, PA: How to Repair 3 Common Issues

There can be a couple of explanations why your air conditioning system won’t cool: a blown circuit breaker, incorrect thermostat settings, a switched off switch or a full condensate drain pan.

Your air conditioner won’t run when you have a blown breaker.

To find out if one has gotten overloaded, find your home’s main electrical panel. You can find this metallic device on the wall in the basement, garage or closet.

• Confirm your hands and feet aren’t wet before you touch the panel or breakers.
• Look for the breaker labeled “AC” and confirm it’s in the “on” position. If it’s triggered the breaker will be in the middle or “off” location.
• Firmly transfer the switch back to the “on” spot. If it instantaneously flips again, don’t reset it and get in touch with us at 814-308-0416. A switch that keeps tripping could indicate your house has electrical trouble.

If your thermostat isn’t giving a sign to your equipment to work, it won’t turn on.

The first point is making sure it’s on “cool” and not “heat.” Otherwise your air conditioner will probably not start running. Or you might receive. warm air coming from vents because the heat is running instead.

If you rely on a regular thermostat:

• Replace the batteries if the readout is clear. If the monitor is showing garbled letters, get a new thermostat.
• Ensure the proper program is showing. If you can’t update it, override it by lowering the temperature and pressing the “hold” button. This will force your AC to work if scheduling is incorrect.
• Test setting the thermostat 5 degrees below the space’s temperature. Your AC won’t work if the thermostat is set the same as the space’s temperature.

Once your thermostat is adjusted properly, you should receive cold air promptly.

If you rely on a smart thermostat, like one made by Nest, Ecobee, Lux, Honeywell or Bosch, look at the manufacturer’s website for help. If it still won’t work, call us at 814-308-0416 for help.

Your air conditioner typically has a power-cutting device by its condenser. This lever is typically in a metal box hung on your residence. If your equipment has recently been fixed, the device may have inadvertently been put in the “off” position.

Condensate drain pans catch the extra condensation your equipment takes out of the air. This pan can be positioned either beneath or within your furnace or air handler.

When there’s a blockage or blocked drain, water can build up and prompt a safety control to turn off your air conditioner.

If your pan involves a PVC pipe or drain, you can get rid of the additional condensation with a special pan-cleaning capsule. You can purchase these tablets at a home improvement or hardware shop.

If your pan includes a pump, look for the float switch. If the switch is “up” and there’s water in the pan, you could need to get a new pump. Reach us at 814-308-0416 for assistance.

If your equipment is on but not cooling, its airflow might be clogged. Or it may not have sufficient refrigerant.

Your system’s airflow can be restricted by a plugged air filter or dirty condenser.

A filthy filter can lead to countless issues, such as:

• Reduced comfort
• Icy refrigerant lines or evaporator coil
• Intermittent cooling
• Larger cooling expenses
• Leading your system to break down more quickly

We suggest replacing flat filters every four weeks, and pleated filters every three months.

If you aren’t sure when you last replaced yours, shut off your AC fully and remove the filter. You can spot the filter in your furnace or air pump’s blower compartment. It might also be located in an adjoining filter case or wall-mounted return air grille.

Tilt the filter up to your light fixture. If you can’t see any light you should replace it.

Greenery, vegetation and sticks can block your condensing equipment. This can restrict its airflow, make it less energy efficient and impact your comfort. Here’s a way you can get your equipment working smoothly again.

1. Shut off power completely at the breaker or external switch.
2. Clear yard rubbish around the air conditioner. Once you’ve cleared larger debris within a two-foot space, you can use a paint brush or vacuum to gingerly clean the equipment’s fins. Bent fins can also impact performance, so you can attempt to correct them with a dinner knife.
3. Use a hose nozzle to gingerly clean the fins from inside the equipment. Don’t get water on the fan motor.
4. Install the top again and turn the power back on.

When air conditioning equipment doesn’t have enough refrigerant, they’ll have to work much harder to remove heat and humidity from your residence.

Here are several flags that your unit is losing refrigerant:

1. It takes too long to cool your home and you’re constantly decreasing the temperature on the thermostat.
2. Air conditioning coming through the vents isn’t as cold as it should be.
3. You’re experiencing hissing or gurgling racket when cooling works.
4. Your evaporator coil is frosted due to having difficulty taking on humidity.

Worried your system is losing refrigerant? You need a qualified heating and cooling service specialist to repair the leak and restore the right level of refrigerant in your equipment. Call us at 814-308-0416 for support.

When it feels like you’re not receiving ample amounts of cool air, there’s usually a blockage or disconnection within your air conditioning system.

• The beginning step is checking your air filter. Replace it if it’s dusty.
• Then check the vents are clear across your home.
• If you’re still not getting ample chilled air, you should have your ducts checked by a specialist like Patterson & Stirling. Your ductwork could need to be serviced or relinked in limited space spots like your attic, basement or crawl space.